1) What do I need to start my first freshwater fish tank?
2) Ok, now how do I set it up?
3) Is a saltwater setup much different than freshwater?
4) How many fish can I fit in my tank?
5) What about maintenance?
6) What about filtration?
7) What is the nitrogen cycle?
8) Is it okay to release my fish into the wild?

1) What do I need to start & how do I setup my first freshwater fish tank? A few necessary things to get started include the fish tank (stand and lid are optional), filtration system, light, gravel/substrate, heater, and a towel. Other items that you may want but that are not necessary include air pumps, chemicals, siphon/gravel vaccuum, timers, buckets, etc. Everything you depends on your budget, the extras can always be purchased down the road! Once you get your fish tank set up and let it circulate for a few days, you'll be ready to add the fish. Back To Top

2) Ok, now how do I set it up? Find a location in your home away from windows; this prevents temperature swings caused by direct sunlight and also prevents heavy algae growth. Make sure to rinse all of your items off with fresh water (don't use soap!), prior to setting up the tank, including gravel. Set up the tank & stand, fill the tank halfway with water, add the gravel, filters, heater, or other items you may have purchased, then fill the tank the remainder of the way.

Once the tank is full, plug in the filter, heater, etc. and let the tank run for a few days. This will make sure that all chlorine in the water has dissipated into the air, but also ensure you don't have any leaks. If all goes well after a few days, add 1" of fish (look for "starter fish" such as tetras) for every 10 gallons of water. Read the FAQ on the nitrogen cycle to understand why! Back To Top

3) Is a saltwater setup much different than freshwater? The stereotype is that saltwater is much more difficult than freshwater but this is not true at all. Your biggest difference between freshwater & saltwater is, well, salt. The larger the tank, the easier the tank will be to maintain since evaporation is your biggest enemy in salt water aquariums. As the tank water evaporates (easily 1 gal+ per day), the salt stays behind increasing the salinity of the tank (chemicals & metals in the water also stay behind).

Although the fish do have some tolerance to the salinity of the water, it can eventually become toxic. Water evaporates quickly, so it is highly suggested that the hobbyist use RO/DI water (reverse osmosis/de-ionized water, highly filtered to remove 99.9% of the impurities). Filtration is also different for saltwater tanks, more on that in FAQ #6. Back To Top

4) How many fish can I fit in my tank? The general rule of thumb is usually 1" of fish per 1 gallon of water, once your tank is fully operational. Fish need room to swim, so make sure you have a bigger tank, if you want bigger fish. When you purchase fish, keep in mind that they will likely grow, so make sure to plan accordingly! The Pets Unlimited staff can let you know how big each type of fish gets.

Also keep in mind that gravel, plants, decorations, the filter, heater, and the fish themselves take up volume in the tank, so a 10 gallon tank may only truly have 7-8 gallons of water in it. Most importantly, no more than 25% of the total volume of fish should be introduced at once due to the strain it puts on the biological load of the tank.

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5) What about maintenance? Aquarium maintenance is pretty easy. Daily you should check to make sure that no fish have jumped out (they somehow manage to do this no matter how good of a cover you have on the tank). If a fish HAS jumped out, call 911 immediately and begin CPR. Make sure all of the filters are operational (and that the filter pads are not clogged), air pumps/powerheads are working, and that the temperature of the tank is at a suitable level. Keep an eye on your fish, if they exhibit signs of illness (such as spots, growths, or uncharacteristic behavior), you may need to medicate or even quarantine the ailing fish. Information on fish illnesses can be found with a simple Google search, or in many of the books we sell.

Make sure the water level of your tank doesn't get too low, and do a water change on 15-20% of the water each week. Also make sure the water's pH, nitrate, and ammonia levels are normal, and remove any plant debris in the tank. Back To Top

6) What about filtration? In freshwater, there are 3 different types of filtration recommended. The first is mechanical, where water passes through synthetic foam or nylon floss and physically filters the material going through it. The second is biological filtration which provides a home for bacteria that produces necessary nitrates & nitrites. The third is chemical filtration such as activated charcoal which absorbs chemicals and dissolved minerals. Remember, you can never have too much filtration, but you can certainly have too little!

Saltwater tanks use two main filtration methods, live rock which has living organisms living in the holes carved by invertibrates and protein skimming. Protein skimmers inject a huge volume of air bubbles into the water flowing through the skimmer & remove the waste in the water. These 2-3' tall devices usually sit in a sump tank, below your display tank. The sump also increases total water volume allowing you to keep more fish in your tank.

There are other "toys" in the saltwater world that can assist with filtration, such as UV sterlizers which kill harmful waterborne bacteria, fungi, viruses, and protozoan. Powerheads are also used since they assist in constant water flow over the live rock. The organisms that live in live rock need a constant source of food; otherwise they will die and your live rock will become ineffective. As a result, a high volume of water flow in the tank is essential. Back To Top

7) What is the nitrogen cycle? Your tank's nitrogen cycle begins when you add your first fish. When fish excrete waste, the decay of their waste turns into ammonia, which is deadly for fish. An "ammonia peak" takes about two weeks to occur. Naturally occuring bacteria called nitrosamonas (good) break down the ammonia (bad) into less harmful nitrites. These nitrites can still harm your fish, but aren't as bad as ammonia. Nitrosamonas require a good oxygen supply, which can be assisted with good filtration & air stones. The accumulation of nitrites will eventually reach toxic levels. This is where nitrobacter (good) come into play and convert the nitrites into nitrates.

Nitrates build up slowly over time, and can be flushed out with periodic water changes. Keep an eye on pH, nitrite, nitrate, and ammonia levels using standard test kits.

You can speed up the cycling process by using starter fish, mature gravel from a new or pre-existing tank, adding food to the tank (excess food decays & creates ammonia, but this can lead to water fouling), or commercial additives.

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8) Is it okay to release my fish into the wild? Any plant or animal that is not native to the United States is considered an exotic species. Most fish available for sale in pet shops are exotic and are imported predominantly from Central and South America, Africa, and southeast Asia. Each year, over 2000 species, representing nearly 150 million exotic freshwater and marine fish, are imported into the United States for use in the aquarium trade.

Currently, at least 126 different species of exotic fish have been caught in open waters of the United States, and 46 of these are known to have established breeding populations. Over half of these introductions are due to the release or escape of aquarium fish.

If exotic fish survive and reproduce, they are difficult, if not impossible to control or eradicate. They may cause changes in the existing aquatic communities through competition with and aggression towards native species, as well as overcrowding. They may infect native fish with exotic parasites or diseases. An exotic fish may also affect the genetics of native species by mating with them. Some species may even pose a physical or public health threat, such as piranhas and freshwater stingrays.

If you have a fish you no longer want, bring it into a local fish store (LFS) for resale or trade, give it to another hobbyist (many reef/aquarist forums exists for this), or donate it to a public intitution, such as a school. Back To Top